Artisans of the Milky Way: Discovering the Flavor of the Stars in Rural Galicia

For the medieval pilgrim walking toward the tomb of St. James, the Milky Way was more than a galaxy; it was a divine map. They called it the Camino das Estrelas (The Starry Way), believing that the densest cluster of stars in the night sky was mirrored on earth by the path leading to Galicia.

But as you descend from the mountains of O Cebreiro into the rolling green valleys of central Galicia, you realize there is a second «Milky Way» right here on the ground. This is the land of deep pastures, ancient forests, and a dairy tradition so rich it has defined our culture for centuries. At North West Incoming, we invite you to meet the modern «Guardians of the Stars»—the artisans who turn our emerald landscape into the «milk and honey» of legend.

When actress Eva Longoria explored the culinary roots of Spain, she found herself captivated by the Galician countryside. She witnessed what we at North West Incoming strive to show every guest: that the best food doesn’t come from a lab, but from a landscape treated with reverence. Longoria’s reaction to our artisanal cheeses wasn’t just about the flavor—it was about the honesty of the product. In a world of mass-produced dairy, Galicia remains a sanctuary for the small-scale producer.

The Four Pillars of Galician Cheese

Galicia is home to four protected Denominations of Origin (DOP) for cheese. Each one tells a story of a specific micro-region and a specific history.

1. Queixo de Tetilla: The Shape of Rebellion

Perhaps our most famous cheese, the Tetilla is recognizable by its unique pear or «teat» shape. Beyond its mild, buttery flavor and velvety texture, its history is deeply tied to the local culture. Legend says the shape originated as a silent protest by local artisans against a bishop who ordered the «toning down» of a revealing statue in the Portico of Glory at the Cathedral of Santiago. It is a soft, creamy cheese that pairs perfectly with a glass of Albariño or a slice of quince paste (membrillo).

2. Arzúa-Ulloa: The Pilgrim’s Companion

Often called the «cheese of the land,» this is the most consumed artisanal cheese in Galicia. It is the heart and soul of the French Way. If you walk the Camino, you will see farmers selling wheels of Arzúa-Ulloa from their doorsteps. It is incredibly smooth, slightly acidic, and melts beautifully. For the traveler, it represents the simple, sustaining hospitality that the Camino has offered for a millennium.

3. San Simón da Costa: The Smoked Sentinel

Hailing from the province of Lugo, this cheese is for the sophisticated palate. It is a smoked cheese, cured using the wood of the local birch tree (bidueiro). The result is a firm, ochre-colored rind with a subtle, nutty interior. It is the «aristocrat» of Galician cheeses, often featured on the menus of Michelin-starred chefs across Europe.

4. Cebreiro: The Holy Grail of Cheeses

As you enter Galicia via the high mountain pass of O Cebreiro, you find a cheese that looks like a chef’s hat. This is one of the oldest cheeses in Europe. In the 18th century, it was so prized that it was sent as a gift to the Royal House of Portugal. It is a fresh, grainy cheese with a sharp, clean finish—a true «mountain soul» on a plate.

Sustainability in Action

At North West Incoming, we prioritize visits to producers who share our values of sustainability and ethical stewardship. A good example would be Casa Grande de Xanceda.

For an American visitor, Xanceda is a revelation. While the US dairy industry is often associated with large-scale «mega-farms,» Xanceda is a 200-hectare organic oasis. Here, the cows are treated with a level of care that borders on the spiritual. They graze outdoors 365 days a year on meadows that have never seen chemical fertilizers or pesticides.

Why it matters:

• Female Leadership: Xanceda is a leader in rural empowerment, with a workforce that is predominantly female, revitalizing a rural economy that was once in decline.
• Biodiversity: They have created a «nature reserve» within the farm, protecting local species like the Iberian wolf and rare birds.
• Quality: Because the cows are happy and the soil is healthy, the yogurt and cheese produced here have a nutrient profile and a flavor depth that simply cannot be replicated in industrial farming.

The Golden Harvest: Meles de Galicia

Between the pastures, you will find our «Artisans of the Sky»—the bees. Galician honey (Mel de Galicia) is protected by a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) because our flora is unique. Our bees feed on heather, chestnut, blackberry, and oak.

During our Artisans of the Milky Way experience, we take you to meet local beekeepers, like in the mountains of the Courel or the Os Ancares, where you will see alvarizas—ancient, circular stone walls built centuries ago to protect the hives from hungry brown bears. It is a stunning example of how humans have learned to co-exist with a wild, rugged landscape. Tasting honey directly from the comb, with the scent of the Atlantic forest in the air, is a sensory experience you will never forget.

A Land of Milk and Honey: The Spiritual Connection

For the traveler, the imagery of a «land flowing with milk and honey» is deeply resonant. In Galicia, this isn’t just a biblical metaphor; it is our reality. We see the hand of the Creator in the balance of our ecosystem—where the cow, the bee, and the artisan work in a sacred harmony.

The monks who settled here in the 12th century were the first to systematize these agricultural practices. They understood that to care for the soul, one must also care for the land. When you join us at North West Incoming for this journey, you are stepping into that ancient tradition of stewardship.

The North West Incoming touch

We don’t just take you to a shop to buy cheese. We take you to the meadow. We take you to the hive. We introduce you to the women and men who are keeping rural Galicia alive through sheer passion and hard work.

As Gordon Ramsay often says, the best food is «honest.» There is nothing more honest than a piece of bread, a wedge of hand-crafted cheese, and a drizzle of mountain honey shared in a stone cottage while the mist rolls over the Galician hills. This is the true «Spirit of the Stars.»

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Would you like to taste the Milky Way?

We can arrange a private «Cheese & Honey Masterclass» at a family-run farm, where the owner will guide you through the nuances of our cheeses paired with local and wines.